Fashion is a mode of expressing who we are as individuals, our authentic selves, our backgrounds, and inspirations in life. When we wear a garment or accessory, it conveys our personal views and personality while also empowering not only yourself but others in the process, to have the confidence to embrace and express our beliefs. Fashion can be a form of art and architecture, while also being a method of embracing and proudly displaying cultural identities.

Fashion is such a powerful and visual way to present and adopt your cultural identity, with so many different routes to do so, this article will delve into how and why fashion plays such a huge part in expressing cultural identity and values as well as looking at the impact globalisation and our modern society plays a part in this expression.

Understanding Cultural Identity:

Cultural identity refers to the impact of characteristics about us that we share with certain cultural groups, how we identify with them, and how they impact our self-perception of ourselves and other people’s perceptions of us. These cultural characteristics can include nationality, ethnicity, religion, language, race and religion and can be portrayed in many ways, such as music, cuisine, language and fashion.

Historical Perspective on Fashion and Culture:

Fashion has reflected cultural identity through history, traditional garments, patterns and symbols containing meaning are different cultures being worn and on proud display, not only telling others what culture an individual identifies and resides with but also as a signifier of power and respecting the meaning and tradition behind these fashion elements as well as paying homage to ancestry. 

For example, the Japanese kimono, which is still worn today out of respect and admiration for the culture in Japan, holds a lot of symbolism within the culture of Japan. The traditional full-length robe is a symbol of good fortune and the longevity of life. With the first ancestor of the kimono dating back as far as the year 794 during the Heian period, the cultural significance of this well-respected and proudly preserved tradition and garment is incredible.

The pattern feature on each individual’s kimono was traditionally personalised for that individual and that individual only, with factors such as fabric quality, pattern and type of thread all being factors that differed depending on the person it was being made for, relating to an individual’s age, rank and gender in particular.

Even today, when you visit Japan the kimono tradition is still heavily respected and worn, with tourists even being able to go to kimono rentals and experience the proud culture of Japan as well as explore the significance this garment has on their cultural identity not only as individuals but as a country, and this cultural identity has been carried through fashion through history.

Another common example is the Scottish kilt, a knee-length garment resembling a skirt containing many pleats and often a tartan pattern. The kilt is a fundamental part of Gaelic tradition, being the Gaelic men and boys’ traditional clothing in the Scottish Highlands. Dating back to the 16th century and still being worn in formal settings and occasions today, this garment was and still can be interpreted as a symbol of power as well as pride for your Scottish heritage, as well as originally being a symbol of support for Scottish independence and masculinity. The tartan patterns were traditionally associated with different Scottish clans and families, this significance fading away today but the pride for the kilt and Scotland remains. 

Fashion as Cultural Expression

Fashion can be considered as a form of art and architecture, where not only designers but also those who wear particular garments can express their cultural beliefs and opinions, therefore allowing it to be utilized for other pathways to form an impact and turn heads, such as protests, cultural expression and challenging social norms when it comes to how we ‘should’ dress.

Clothing and accessories function as a medium when it comes to expressing culture and your background, with different pieces of traditional garments forming a meaning as well as reflecting cultural significance. For example, the traditional saree holds huge significance within many countries, including India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, and Nepal and is a modest garment worn by women within these cultures. They are most commonly worn by Muslims and Hindus but are also classed as very diverse garments when it comes to what religions wear the saree, with Sikhs, Buddhists and Christians wearing them in these South Asian countries.

The saree can be a garment that acts as an heirloom and is passed down from family as well as being a huge influence in fashion and designers across the globe, their beauty, femininity, and tradition being admirable and captivating. Sarees hold vast amounts of cultural significance, particularly surrounding how women are perceived, acting as a vessel of expression of a woman’s elegance, courteousness and identity as well as displaying the artisanry, beauty, and charm of the work of art saree itself. 

The West African Agbada is another example of how a traditional piece of clothing can carry such cultural significance. Only men traditionally wear this garment from the Yoruba of Nigeria and the Republic of Benin, the four-piece, loose-flowing gown symbolising masculinity. The four pieces consist of the Awosoke (outer robe), Awotele (undervest), Sokoto (long trousers) and Fila (hat).

All these components make the captivating agbada, expressing heritage, wealth, and masculinity within the Yoruba culture in Nigeria, traditionally featuring embroidery of native Yoruba and made of hand-woven cotton. The cultural significance as well as the origin and artisanry of this traditional male attire and, similarly to the saree, passed down as family heirlooms, signifying a sense of pride as well as the other cultural expressions portrayed by the garment.

The distinctive features of bright colours and intricate patterns also signify the legacy and wealth of the country it was made and those who wear it come from, the men showing considerable pride in their culture and heritage.  

The Impact of Globalisation on Fashion and Culture

Globalisation has had an enormous impact on the fashion industry and cultural identities. It has formed a pathway for cross-cultural influences to travel across the globe and reach other countries and cultures, influencing local markets, and merging traditional garments with fashion and the fashion industry. This not only allows others to learn about the cultures particular styles come from but also allows some cultures to feel seen and respected.

However, a downside of this aspect of globalisation of culture within the fashion industry is the risk of cultural appropriation, with models wearing traditional garments from a culture they are not part of, particularly on the runway and editorial. Despite this, as of recently, the fashion industry has turned over a new leaf, with the industry becoming increasingly diverse and cultures being treated with respect and consideration, we can admire, learn and respect all cultural identities across the globe while also incorporating this into fashion. 

Globalisation has influenced trends within the fashion industry, causing cross-cultural fusion and a way in which to celebrate inclusivity and diversity with vibrant and universal styles and trends. An example of this is the influence the Japanese kimono has had on modern fashion trends around the world. With kimono-style wraps and shawls being a trend, being a particular staple for summer and beach wear, the impact globalization has had on the Japanese traditional garment is huge.

Another example of cross-cultural influences on fashion and trends is the draping technique which is becoming an increasingly trendy style and technique used by designers, taking huge inspiration from the saree. This merging of modern fashion and South Asian tradition is being incorporated into gowns and dresses, giving an effortlessly elegant and sophisticated look as well as incorporating the often bold colours and complex, captivating embroidery traditionally featured on sarees.

The layering and draping traditionally and distinctively part of the saree is no doubt influencing evening and occasion wear in modern fashion all over the globe, being another popular example of the power globalization has on cross-cultural fashion trends, Naomi Campbell even wearing a saree-inspired look to the Met Gala in 2023, highlighting to a vast audience the importance of culture when it comes to designing garments as well as the impact of fashion on cultural identity and the support for inclusivity and inclusion of culture in designing. 

Modern Fashion and Cultural Identity

Contemporary fashion has a significant role when it comes to expressing cultural identity, with an increasingly inclusive and diverse world we live in, brands and designers have learned to embrace cultural identity and tradition, using it to inspire or incorporate it into new collections and fashion shows. With contemporary fashions’ primary audience being Gen-Z, showing the younger population that their culture and identity is something to embrace and express and not hide is extremely important, empowering the younger generation as well as helping them empower others, highlighting the importance of the role fashion plays in society as well as fashion in different cultures. 

Japanese high-end designer brand, Issey Miyake, has built its brand around embracing traditional Japanese culture and incorporating it into high fashion. The late founder of the brand, Issey Miyake himself, was known for his technology-driven, innovative, and unique designs, combining Western style with East Asian heritage and culture. Their latest fall/winter 2024 collection was featured at Paris Fashion Week – designed by director and head designer of Issey Miyake, Satoshi Kondo –  and was highly praised for the inclusivity and cultural heritage it featured, taking clear inspiration from traditional Japanese garments such as Yukata robes and jika-tabi footwear, as well as the vibrant colours and print similar to that of sashiko embroidery. 

Kondo celebrated minimalism and the timelessness of traditional Japanese attire, proving that when combined with contemporary, Western fashion, it can be a ready-to-wear collection accessible to all. Emphasizing cultural heritage through fashion is a route Issey Miyake as a brand has always chosen to do, his staple free-flowing, one-fabric designs not only an expression of his and his brand’s cultural identity but allow others to embrace and express their cultural identity through fashion and how this can be achieved while still being trendy and contemporary.

Fashion as a Reflection of Cultural Values

Fashion can reflect the cultural values and norms of society, creating a pathway for people to express their cultural identity and be unique, differentiating themselves from others. However, many people choose to wear their cultural garments alongside Western/trendy pieces of contemporary fashion that would be classed as a societal norm in other countries. For example, many Muslim women decide to wear a Hijab alongside loose contemporary clothing, such as jeans and a top.

This is because the religion states that if the woman is dressed modestly and respectfully in the eyes of their culture, it is perfectly fine. The Hijab symbolize modesty, privacy and morality and as long as your fashion choices abide by and reflect those cultural values of the Hijab and Islam, then Muslim women are allowed to follow fashion trends and contemporary fashion (as long as the clothing is loose), combining Western societal ‘norms’ while also reflecting, respecting and identifying with their culture. 

Another example of culture highlighting the relationship between societal norms and cultural values when it comes to fashion is the Japanese tabi shoe. Traditional Japanese footwear dates to the 15th century, being used as work footwear and slowly becoming a traditional Japanese fashion statement, especially for women, promoting good posture, and balance and preventing foot injuries due to the distinctive split between the big toe of the shoe and the rest of the toes. Their holistic values help connect to your senses and have a clear mind, being a very spiritual attire in Japanese heritage.

However, as of recently, this tabi style footwear has entered contemporary fashion, with many large designer and high-street brands releasing their versions of the footwear, taking inspiration from the Japanese culture. Luxury designer brands such as Maison Margiela debuted this style show back in 1988 originally according to Vogue and have since revisited this style in many of their collections, including their 2023 and 2024 collections. 

With A-listers such as Dua Lipa, Cardi B and Kylie Jenner, the tabi shoe is increasingly becoming a social norm concerning Western, contemporary fashion, fashion itself being a reflection of the cultural values the tabi shoe holds, putting cultural garments such as the Hijab and tabi shoes in the limelight in the fashion industry, their cultural values and significance being reflected and influenced. 

The role fashion plays when it comes to embracing cultural identity can be vast, whether you choose to wear the full traditional garments and express your heritage and beliefs or incorporate your culture with contemporary fashion, changing not only the fashion industry but also questioning social norms and empowering others with similar cultural identities to do the same.

With fashion brands embracing and respecting different cultures, such as Maison Margiela and Issey Miyake, it allows traditional garments to have a platform and be embraced by the masses, demonstrating how cultural identity and fashion have a strong and significant relationship, working hand in hand when it comes to expressing and embody peoples heritage, beliefs and nationalities, fashion being a way to preserve cultural identity, letting history shine in our modern society. 

Many designers, especially smaller, independent designers, within the fashion industry have learned to incorporate cultural identity into their fashion collections, adapting inclusivity and diversity into their brand, however, many bigger and higher-end and high street brands need to do more when it comes to learning and incorporating culture into their work. Even though we have come far as a society in terms of inclusion and embracing our diverse population, especially within an industry where cultural identity is often ignored or not acknowledged at all.

However, the more people incorporate and express their cultural identities through their fashion choices, the stronger the influence and the call for change will be for the fashion industry, especially for bigger brands that often do not value culture compared to independent, smaller designers and brands, which is why supporting these smaller designers is also so important not only for their company and growth but also for creating a movement for inclusivity in fashion. 

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